Rejuvenated by a sleep in a real bed we headed off to the local bar - Bar Alex - for breakfast. No, we hadn't turned into raving alcoholics, we were simply having breakfast the way many Italians do: a 'cornetto' and a coffee to start the day. The Italian version of a croissant and a milky coffee started us off on the right track for a very busy, hot and fascinating day.
First off we headed for the Colosseum, which seems in far better shape than when I last saw it in 1978 - yes I really am that old! We joined a tour group run by a young guy who really knew his stuff. Even though an average of 16-19,000 people visit every day now, the majesty of the architecture and the scale of the building is still awe inspiring. The fascination of the populace for centuries with the goriest most blood-soaked sports is remarkable. You can just imagine the locals heading off for a big day out to watch a dog and porcupine fight it out, followed by starving hyenas taking on a hippo, and then, the highlight of the program, 20 starving lions doing battle with trained gladiators who may or may not be armed! Certainly sounds like a great night out!
Then it was off to see the Palatine hill where the movers and shakers lived and played, and the Roman Forum where all of the big decisions were made about the expansion of the Roman Empire. This was one of those experiences where your imagination - and some pictures in the guide's reference books - helped bring the place to life. Three pillars becomes a magnificent building, and a patch of grass the emperors private sports ground! ( I can hear Erin groaning from here after her experiences in Turkey - not more rocks!?).
The buildings that remain were still impressive and some of them still in excellent condition despite their age. The most dull windowless building was the actual Senate house where all of the big decisions were made about the running of the Roman Empire. And where Julius Caesar was not stabbed to death! (They were using a temporary senate whilst this one was being built).
Then off we wandered to see yet more sights including:
- the Tomb of the unknown soldier built in tribute to Vittorio Emmanuelle. A HUGE totally 'over the top' white marble building with a huge staircase and the most officious guards we'd seen. Because of the 'sacredness of the place' there were strict rules, and the two officials on duty, resplendent in blue uniforms, gold braid and piercing shiny whistles took great delight in upholding them. You think you're going to actually sit on the steps or take your shoes off or take a swig of water - well think again as these guys would whistle loudly, point at you, yell and generally look ferocious. It was almost entertaining watching them in action.
The Italians do love a uniform and preferably one that involves a gun. Any uniforms seem to have lots of gold braid, shining buttons and colours. Except for the traffic cops who are dazzling in their white uniforms, gloves and pith helmets!
- Eating tiramisu gelati sitting on the front steps ( with no-one yelling and whistling!) of the Church of Saint Agnes and the Agony ( about what??) in Piazza Navona. It was full of artists selling their wares and surrounded by elegant apartment buildings which created the Piazza.
- the Trevi Fountain. Question: how many tourists can you fit around one enormous white marble fountain? the answer: far too many! Obviously everyone has seen the 1950's films that featured this fountain as it felt as if the entire tourist population of Rome had descended upon it at the same time. The heat and the noise and the crush of people rather detracted from the beauty of the fountain. Ewan had to ring me as he lost sight of me completely when I pushed through the crowd to throw a coin in the fountain and make a wish.
- The Pantheon. I mistakenly passed a smaller version of this building and started taking photos until Ewan pointed out that it wasn't it! Anyway the real multi-columned building has a magnificent domed ceiling, the centre of which was open to the elements and so required a drainage system toget rid of any rain that fell into the building.
- The surprise of wandering through the cracked old door of a church - Saint Ignatius of Loyola - and seeing a truly magnificently painted and decorated interior. One of the many domes had been painted in black and dark grey in stark contrast to the rest of the colourful frescoes.
We certainly covered some kilometres along picturesque lanes and alleyways and wore our shoes, and ourselves ,out. We sustained ourselves with salad, sandwiches and the inevitable gelati!
At lunch we met a Melbourne guy who had the misfortune of having his wallet stolen by pickpockets: a very frequent occurrence here. Ewan has a bag strapped to his waist but then secretes all sorts of maps, his phone (and even a tablet) in the large pockets of his shorts. He looks like Mr Gadget producing all of the bits and pieces stored in his pockets when required.
We finally staggered home and collapsed for a long nap.
Rousing ourselves for dinner we headed for the same small local restaurant called Hosteria Edmondo where we had eaten the night before. We could have been more adventurous but due to our levels of exhaustion this was perfect. We arrived to find the local girls football team and their Dads having dinner. Our gnocchi and osso bucco were great so we followed them up with tiramisu and chocolate panacotta made with dark bitter chocolate : stunning!
So after another exhausting but fascinating day and with just a touch of sunburn, it's off to bed at last.
your weary traveller
Dianne
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