Monday 14th October
Today we started to head in the direction of Rome and home. So sad as there is so much more to see!
We started the day queuing up early to see the Duomo or St Mark's Basilica in the Piazza San Marco . The last time I saw it, 35 years ago, I was amazed by the gold mosaics, so I was determined to go back to see if it was as beautiful as I remembered. It is currently being renovated so the outside is partly covered but the inside was magnificent.
Despite the large signs clearly comunicating that no photos were allowed most of the tourists were snapping away happily, which I find very annoying. I didn't take photos inside but I did manage to take some of the entrance . The height of the domed ceiling, the finely detailed marble mosaic floor and the amazing frescoes composed of tiny mosaic tiles, with backgrounds made from real gold make it one of the most impressive Duomos, and just as beautiful as I remembered it.
Having ticked that off the list, we headed to the Train station on the first legs of our trip to Rome so we can depart for home on Thursday. Firstly we caught a Frecci Argento train to Florence: it only took two hours as the train reached speeds over 200kph. A very smooth ride indeed. Ewan has been keen to experience all of the varieties of Freccio trains but unfortunately we haven't managed to get on the fastest: the Freccio Rossa.Then we caught the regional train to Siena where we will spend a couple of nights wandering around the hills of the old town.
Later.....
When we arrived we had to make the big decision about getting from the Station to the Locanda ( little hotel) where we were staying. Usually we rely on good old Gloria and Google maps to give directions and then wheel our cases if it's not too far or get a taxi or a bus if we can work out how. Ewan's wheels on his new case have been getting overheated and one started to squeak so he has been using soap to grease the wheel before we set off. When it started to rain in Como as we headed for the station I was a bit worried that his case would start to froth and leave a trail of bubbles! But it was fine. Mind you the italian cobblestones are enought to test any set of wheels - and legs if it comes to that!
Anyway Gloria said it was going to take 34 minutes to walk to the Locanda, and we knew that Siena was hilly so we made a VERY good decision to catch a taxi. If you had seen the twists and turns the taxi took, up hill and down dale, in and out of alleyways that were mostly one way and on rough stone streets you would agree that it was 10 euros well spent. When we finally fell out of the taxi we had no idea where we were or which direction was north.
After getting some directions from the Receptionist, and aided by a detailed map, we had a quick wander around the Piazzo del Campo : a huge round sloped Piazza , and had a quick look at the Duomo from the outside, but we'll explore more of the old town tomorrow. Dinner at the local Osterria was pasta and risotto , and much cheaper than Venice tourist prices too.
Tuesday 15th October
We awoke to grey skies but hopeful of some sunshine to warm the day as we walked, strolled and climbed our way around the attractions of the old city of Siena. This is another Unesco rated city and has many well-preserved buildings dating as far back as the 14th century . As usual there is a large old city wall for protection, a huge Duomo and a very high tower just waiting to be climbed. We had to wait until 10.30 before purchasing our OPA pass which gave us entry into 6 sites around the Duomo.
Asyou can see from the photos the outside of the Duomo is definitely Gothic wedding cake design and made from pink and white marble which has been sculpted into fine lace. The inside was just as amazing and for once we had timed our arrival perfectly. The feature the Siena Duomo is known for is the intricate marble floors, unlike anything we had seen elsewhere. There are 56 panels depicting historical and religious events and such intricate work. But the floors are only uncovered for about 8 weeks every year in rder to preserve them, and we were lucky to be able to see them.
The pillars and walls of the Duomo are striped with dark and light granite/marble, and there are enormous frescoes and lots of stained glass. I particularly love the ceilings we've seen in lots of churches where the ceiling is painted a deep blue and gold stars are scattered across them, as they were here.The overall effect is stunning. There's not a plain piece of wall or floor anywhere, so if you like busy, then this is the Duomo for you. Very ornate and colourful, both inside and out.
One of the other special features is the Libreria Piccolomini (small library) which had huge hand written and hand painted books from the 14th Century: such bright colours and in good condition.
Then we visited a number of buildings that are part of the Duomo complex, filled with statues, plans for the mosaic floors, more frescoes, paintings and even one room where there were 10 Madonna and Child paintings (Ewan counted them!) I find it surprising that the madonnas never seem to look happy, they look blank or mysterious or smug, and occasionally have a glimmer of a smile, but never happy! Some of these were really beautifully crafted with lots of gold haloes and finally textured gold 'fabrics'. Superb craftsmanship.
One of these buildings was the Cripta, a room underneath the main church which was only discovered in 1999 and filled with frescoes about a pope whoc came from Siena. We also climbed to the top level of one of the church buildings to get a view of the terracotta rooftops and crowded buildings of Siena.
Although that view wasn't good enough for Ewan. He had been eyeing off the Torre del Mangia at the Palazzo Communale, the old civic buildings of the city. As you can see from the photos, it's very high and has more than 500 steps to reach the top. I decided to forgo the joy of climbing to the top and go shopping for the best panforte in Siena. Ewan was only allowed to take a camera and no other items with him, so imagine his delight when the batteries in the camera were exhausted after he took about 10 photos and, of course, I had the new batteries. He exchanged a few texts with his friend Andy in Australia from the top as the phone reception was great. He sent me a text saying "Batteries in camera exhausted, but not me!".
Meanwhile I had purchased some very nice panforte which is a traditional sweet from here. It's a mixture of dried fruit, spices, nuts and sometimes chococolate. Very chewy and undoubtedly good for you as it has fruit in it. Notice how I can justify any sweet and sickly treat as somehow being a good thing!
Needless to say Ewan's Achilles tendon didn't appreciate the strain, so after a few more lanes and alleys we returned to the hotel for a rest, and ice for his foot. Brilliant timing as there was a downpour just after we arrived back.
Once rested we headed off to the same restaurant as the previous night - not very adventurous I know, but lovely food! - and had some grilled pork and veal braised in chianti with vegetables. Excellent rainy weather food we thought.
Off towards Rome tomorrow for our last day.
Your panforte expert
Dianne
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