After failing to see any of the sights suggested in Bergamo, (except for their exteriors and signs saying 'Closed on Mondays') we set off to retrace our steps and hopefully see them in dry weather.
It was worth the effort as the rain had cleared and the old city looked more alive and sparkling than the day before. Partly because large groups of schoolchildren were heading for the sights as well.
This time we knew the bus route so reached the top of the hill relatively easily, although still managed to get out at the wrong stop. A walk through some narrow stone alleyways left us outside the Palazzo della Raggione - exactly opposite the restaurant where we had lunched yesterday. But this time the doors were open and we could climb the impressive staircase into the building.
With the Accademia Carrara closed for renovations a number of the best artworks have been relocated here. So we spent an hour viewing some beautiful pieces by Bellini, Botticelli and Moroni amongst others. There was also a huge painting of The Last Supper which had been beautifully restored. Sometimes the number of artworks in a gallery are so overwhelming that you can't absorb them at all. As there were only about 100 pieces and they were specially chosen we could enjoy them without needing a rest and sustenance to get through them all.
We also managed to get into the Capella Colleoni and the neighbouring Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore and it was a huge surprise. From the outside it seemed small but once we entered, the decor and the size were overwhelming. Although started in 1137 it had undergone many transformations but was essentially rococo design: enough curly gold carvings and bright colours and patterns to send your senses reeling. Put it this way, Ewan commented " Now I know where Franco Cozzo got his inspiration!"
Having booked seats on the Frecchiabianco ( hang on I think that's a chocolate and I mean a train!) we headed for the train station and jumped aboard at noon. Very comfortable seats for the second half of the journey on the flasher train.
After a couple of hours of travelling we arrived at Verona. After storing our luggage at the Train station we set off for the Roman Arena or amphitheatre. It was tourist central: a beautiful pink granite amphitheatre built from huge blocks of rough stone set in a huge Piazza created by colourful apartment buildings and restaurants, cafes and gelaterias. Including, of course, a statue of our old friend Vittorio Emmanuale II. He seems to pop up everywhere , just like Ataturk in Turkey, and every city has a Boulevarde named after him. Ewan had to look him up on Google and he was the first 'King' of Italy.
Whilst enjoying a pizza , snippets of rock music was being played at full volume in the amphitheatre. It is apparently used for all sorts of concerts, particularly opera during summer and is supposed to seat about 30,000 people.
It sounded to me as if they were doing a sound check for a performance and, sure enough, we couldn't get into the Arena to have a look because there is some Italian rock star performing there tonight. There were huge amounts of filming equipment, huge screens in place etc and lots of security so no hope of seeing the inside of the place today. Just our luck!
It had started to rain so we returned to the train station, collected our luggage and booked in to the Hotel - Hotel Franciscus - not far from the old town.
We're planning on returning there tonight and finding somewhere nice to eat along the river.
I'm not sure what transport we might use tomorrow to get around as Ewan spotted a hire company that hires out a very interesting array of tiny two seater electric cars and electric bikes and then there's always the usual bicycle: We shall see in the morning. It seems to be a flat city with a river meandering through it so it might be nice to cycle - but only if it stays dry!
We will endeavour to see what Shakespeare thought was so good about Verona!
Your only-slightly-damp reporter
Dianne
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